How Do You Restore A Fence?

The color of the wood will shine as the surface is stripped away. Monitor closely and avoid stripping when there is no color change. You don't have to strip too much surface to expose fresh wood, and continuing to spray will not enhance the color.

 

It takes a little practice to get to the right tip distance and pace of movement, but you're going to catch up quickly. It's easier to make two or three passes than to risk gouging the surface trying to get this job done in one pass.

 

Close up of sprayer tip

You'll need both a 25-degree (less aggressive) and a 15-degree (more aggressive) spray tip. You should turn to a 15-degree tip as you gain experience. The tip cuts more forcefully and operates better than the 25-degree tip.

Easy repairs add years to your fence's life

With the fence clean, it's time to repair or replace broken boards, rehabilitate loose boards and countersink any protruding nails. Using waterproof glue to patch any cracked and broken boards. Drive corrosion-resistant screws instead of nails to firmly pull loose parts together. If the gate is sagging, straighten it with the help of the turnbuckle. Cover the posts where they emerge from the earth or the asphalt with a wood preservative. It is the first place to rot.

 

Glue Damaged Pieces

Glue split and broken pieces after the wood has been dry for at least 24 hours. Apply waterproof glue and clamp or tape the bits closely together.

 

Tighten loose boards

Drive weatherproof or stainless steel screws to tighten loose boards. Place the head down 1/4 in. And cover it with a light-colored caulk.

 

Apply wood preservative

Brush the wood preservative in the posts around the base to help prevent rot in this vulnerable area.

 

Straighten gates and doors

Realign the sliding gates with the turnbuckle. You can spray-painted a glossy black turnbuckle to make it less noticeable.

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Stain is making the fence look brand new

Using a semi-transparent oil stain on the outside to retain the natural color of the wood. It seals the wood while allowing differences in grain and color to show through. And its pigments add a full color tone. Make sure that the stain contains ultraviolet inhibitors that slow down sunlight bleaching and a mildewcide to slow fungal growth. Look for samples of cedar in a paint shop, or carry your own piece of wood to the test. A test sample is the best way to obtain a satisfactory result.

 

Brush out the fence stain

Brush the stain (back brush) into the grain of wood and all corners and gaps. Brush out some of the runs or drips. If the wood still appears to be dry, roll on the additional sealer. Work the seal in all corners and recesses. The roller uses the paint, but you need the brush to work well on the surface of the wood.

 

Roll a section of fence stain

Using a "medium nap" paint roller to add a soaking coat to the wood. Let the wood absorb as much sealer as possible. Roll a soaking coat of semi-transparent fence stain into dry wood. Coat about 3 ft. from the fence, then continue to brush the seal into the wood.

 

Stain all areas

Work the stain in small, tight areas with a trim roller and a 2-in. It's a brush. Keep the edges damp to avoid lap marks. There should be plenty of a generous coat. Most semi-transparent oil stains are guaranteed to last two to five years. (Solid-colored stains last longer but are more difficult to renew.) Fences usually face extreme weathering, so expect the finish to last no more than three years. Intend to cover the fence within this timeline to keep your fence looking new. Until painting, wash the fence with a garden hose sprayer and add a brush to sturdy soil deposits and stains. Enable the fence to dry and stain using the same process.